Here is some basic information you'll need if you want to do your own home inspection.

            Personal protection:  coveralls or work clothes, knee pads, dust mask, hat.

            Vision:  flashlights, binoculars (for high roofs), mirror.

            Access:  step & extension ladders

Recording:  notebook, pens (!), camera or video, etc.

            Crawl spaces & attics

            Electrical:  carry tick tester; don’t touch unless you know what you’re doing!

            Asbestos, lead, molds, etc.:  use a respirator; wash up after contact.

            Critters: few if any are dangerous locally, black widows are present in warmer areas.

            Qualified inspectors belong either to American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or California Real Estate Inspection Assoc. (CREIA).  Avoid bogus groups e.g. National Assoc of “Certified” Home Inspectors  (NACHI).  Go to GGASHI.com (site for central Bay Area group),  ASHI.org or CREIA.org to find local inspectors.

            Ask about inspector’s career history, number of inspections performed, etc.

Professionals should have Errors and Omissions (E & O) insurance.

            Type of report:  narrative is clearer and more valuable for later reference; checklists are hard to interpret.

Structural pest inspector:  nearly always, especially for older homes; “termite” clearance may be required by lenders.  Some home inspection companies also do pest inspections, but in most cases don’t do a good job on either one. 

            Engineer:  whenever there is a question on foundation stability; for seismic upgrades on hillside homes, large, split-level, or unusual structures. 

            Roofer:  unless you know the roof is recent and installed by a qualified contractor, get a roof inspection and estimate, especially for large homes and complex roofs. 

            Fireplace & Chimney Specialist:  especially for tall chimneys that are expensive to fix.

            Heating Contractor:  test for heat exchanger defects that pose a potential health hazard.

            Hillside homes, especially old ones, tend to have more structural problems than those on level lots, and they are usually more expensive to fix. 

            Location near seismic faults & landslides is a red flag; check ABAG maps, Kropp & Associates maps.

            Homes in low areas, over culverts or paved-over creeks etc. may be subject to flooding.

Zoning issues can affect future use & improvements, e.g. Berkeley creeks ordinance.  Always check with the local zoning desk about possible restrictions.

            A complex roof with multiple types of roofing requires annual maintenance.  Different materials may need to be replaced on varying schedules.  Get to know a good roofer!

            Lots of trees or vines on or near the roof are picturesque, but can damage roofing and gutters and cause leaks.

Access for repairs can be difficult on the downhill side of a house on a steep lot; this drives up costs for fixing siding, windows, eaves, etc., as there may be a substantial expense for scaffolding. 

Poor access under house makes it difficult or impossible to perform otherwise simple repairs.  Work in tight crawl spaces is often substandard. 

Contact the building department to make sure improvements had permits and were approved. 

If possible, get a set of plans; they are a huge help if further changes are planned.

Contact the architect, designer, or engineer when possible to verify that the work was done according to specifications.

            Identify and contact contractors to verify any warranties on the work.

            Get as much info as possible on brand names, models, and suppliers of key components like roofing, siding, windows, and appliances.  It will be tremendously valuable if something goes south.

Why permitted & inspected work still has defects:  what’s the speed limit?

            A flat roof with poor drainage, especially on older, Mediterranean style stucco homes, is a common cause of extensive concealed damage.

            A large, deteriorated roof of any kind can be expensive to replace.

            Multiple layers increase the cost and may conceal structural defects.

            Deteriorated wood gutters and damaged eaves can be very costly to fix, especially where access is difficult. 

            A brick or deteriorated concrete foundation will probably need replacement.  Avoid capping old foundations; complete replacement is far better. 

            A finished basement may have to be torn out and done over if seismic reinforcement was neglected.

Fixing seepage in basements or below-grade living space can be expensive, especially on hillsides.

            Old additions are often poorly built and not well attached to the house.  Additions supported on posts are a seismic hazard and usually need to have a foundation installed.

An addition on the property line may not be permitted and you may not be able to fix it legally. 

            Non-conforming attic and basement rooms are very common.  It often is not feasible to fix inadequate headroom, ventilation, and substandard stairs. 

Damaged wood siding, shingles, and trim can be costly to replace, especially where access is difficult.

            Stucco can conceal extensive rot due to leaks, both in new & old homes.  Make sure the termite inspection includes probing through the stucco where appropriate.

            Asbestos-cement shingles that are broken and loose can be expensive to replace or remove; any extensive removal should be done by an abatement contractor.  Replacement shingles without asbestos are available, but are time consuming to install. 

            Leaking & rotted porches, decks, & stairs are a serious money pit.  Watch out especially for old concrete porches with tall sets of stairs; replacement can easily cost $30k or more.  A medium sized deck can also cost that much if it is elevated and has stairs. 

            Wood windows can usually be fixed, but repair is not cost effective if they are rotted or have loose joints; replacement is more cost effective unless the windows have critical design elements that are hard to duplicate.  If most of the windows are in poor condition, the cost adds up quickly.

            The steel windows common in stucco homes from the 1920s and 1930s often leak. Typical replacement options often won’t work; tear-out involving stucco repair is usually needed.

            Replacement with vinyl windows is the usual remedy for funky 1950s style aluminum windows. 

            Wiring done by a homeowner is a red flag, especially if it is covered up in remodeling; tear-out may be needed to fix it.

            Rusted water pipes are not too hard to replace where they are accessible, but for pipes inside walls, add the cost of plaster repairs & painting.  Worst case:  pipes under a concrete floor.

Rusted-out drains and vents can be a big expense, especially inside walls.  If you have any doubts, get a plumber to test the system. 

            Most homes built before the 1960s have clay sewers unless they have already been replaced.  Several local cities, including Alameda, Albany, and parts of Richmond and El Cerrito require that sewers be inspected and upgraded on sale of a home.  Berkeley and other cities will soon have similar requirements.  Replacement can be pricey, especially if there is a long run from the house to the street.  Watch out for sewers that cross another property; you will need an easement for access.  And, BTW, someone above you may have an easement to fix sewers on your property.  A sewer inspection for $50 to $200 is a wise investment.

            An old non-functional (or non-existent) heating system can be expensive to upgrade, especially in multi-story homes.  Watch out for old house with gravity furnaces – there are usually no ducts to the upstairs rooms.  Eichler-style homes from the 1950s often have ducts in the concrete floor – they can rust out or fill with water and are expensive to fix.  If you are renting the house to tenants, remember that local and state rules require a permanent source of heat in all living space. 

            Numerous appliances and household fixtures have been recalled for safety defects, often related to fire hazards.   Note the manufacturer, model, and serial number of appliances, then check the web site of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission to see if they are affected by a recall:  www.cpsc.gov. 

            It survived 1906 / 1989 – So what?  There has not been a strong quake on the Hayward Fault since the 19^th century.  The 1989 Loma Prieta quake was about 70 miles from Berkeley – and it still caused local damage.

            Brick or deteriorated foundations should be replaced or upgraded to make sure the house can be anchored. 

            Garage door openings, large areas of glass, and space built over porches create a “soft story” condition that needs special and often expensive reinforcement.  Berkeley is developing a program to require owners of soft story apartment buildings to upgrade at their own expense.

If the basement has been remodeled without seismic reinforcement, walls may have to be torn out and re-done to get the house bolted and braced.

            A complex footprint or split level requires engineering and cost of upgrading can be high.

            Additions not well attached to the house may pull away from it in a strong quake. 

            Balloon framing in old houses and split level homes may need special attention.

            Hillside homes, especially on the downhill side, have special hazards that need engineering. 

            Line wire or gypsum board stucco, common in the 1950s and 1960s, has little resistance to quakes; it may be necessary to open walls for bracing. 

            Bracing installed without protection from moisture can rot and will not help when the Big One comes.

            Older retrofit jobs are often incomplete or inadequate.  Have them reviewed by an engineer or seismic contractor. 

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI):  www.ashi.org

California Real Estate Inspection Association:   www.creia.org

Golden Chapter of ASHI / East Bay Chapter of CREIA:  www.ggashi.org  or www.ebcreia.org

Silicon Valley ASHI – CREIA Chapter:  www.siliconvalleyinspector.com

Association of Bay Area Governments (ABAG); maps of major faults, info on retrofitting, etc:  www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmaps/eqmaps.html

Alan Cropp & Associates; map of Berkeley Hills landslide zones:  www.akropp.com

Earthquake Engineering Research Institute, Northern California Chaper:  www.quake06.org

Guidelines for Hiring Contractors

*Before signing a contract, ask the contractor for references for similar work.  Call previous clients and make sure they were satisfied with the contractor's performance.

*Check the Contractors State License Board database at (800) 321 2752 to verify that the contractor's license is valid and that it was issued for the kind of work you plan to have done.  The information is also posted on the Board’s web site: www. cslb.ca.gov., along with information on regulations related to contracting, how contracts must be written, your rights in the event of disputes, etc.  Payments to unlicensed contractors can be subject to payroll tax assessments and penalties in the event of an audit.

*Insist that contractors provide certificates for general liability and workers compensation insurance.  Certificates should be sent directly to you by the insurance agency, which will notify you if the insurance is cancelled. A copy presented by the contractor is not acceptable, as the insurance may already have been cancelled.  Hiring contractors without insurance can expose you to liability if something goes wrong.

*Never pay a large deposit prior to start of work. Down payments are limited by law to $1,000 or 10% of the contract amount, whichever is less.  Legitimate contractors have credit with suppliers and do not need money in advance to pay for materials. 

*For larger projects, ask for a list of suppliers and subcontractors.  Contact them to verify that the contractor’s accounts are in good standing.  If not, the contractor may fail to pay someone who supplies materials or works on the job.  This can expose your property to a mechanic’s lien, even if you pay the contractor.  Mechanic’s liens are a complex topic; consult an attorney for further information. 

*Permits are required for most improvements.  Make sure the permit is posted at the job before work starts. In most projects, the building inspector will check the work at several stages -- all work must be inspected before it is concealed by later phases.  For example, reinforcing steel is inspected before pouring concrete, and wiring and plumbing are inspected before installing wall surfaces.  The inspector signs off each phase on the permit card, so you can monitor what has been approved.

*If the contract calls for progress payments, they should not greatly exceed the value of the work completed by the time the payment is required. It’s a good idea to have progress payments keyed to approval of specific phases of the work by the building department.

*Always retain part of the price until ALL work has been completed, including cleanup -- this may be after final inspection by the building department.  On completion, make sure materials are as specified and that equipment provided by the contractor works properly. It is common practice for an owner and contractor to review the project together, noting details that need to be corrected before final payment in a written “punch list.”

*For larger projects, especially one that includes an addition, consult an architect.  For structural work such as foundation repair and seismic reinforcement, consult an engineer.  Professional design pays for itself by reducing expensive changes and mistakes during construction.  Architects and engineers are also a good source of contractor referrals. 

*Before signing a contract, ask the contractor for references for similar work.  Call previous clients and make sure they were satisfied with the contractor's performance.